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The Hidden Costs of Fast Fashion: Ghana's Environmental Crisis Unveiled by Greenpeace

Updated: 1 day ago


A new investigation by Greenpeace has uncovered a growing environmental crisis: millions of discarded clothing items from brands such as M&S, Zara, Next and H&M are piling up in Ghana’s fragile Densu Delta wetlands — one of only a few Ramsar‑designated conservation areas in the region.


The dumps are in an internationally recognised wetland that is home to three species of sea turtles. Locals complain that their fishing nets, waterways and beaches are now clogged with more than 30 million pieces of synthetic fast-fashion garments exported to Ghana from the UK and Europe.


According to the report by Greenpeace Africa and Unearthed (Greenpeace UK’s research arm), large quantities of discarded clothing — primarily second-hand garments imported from Europe and North America — have been found dumped in ecologically sensitive wetlands near Accra and other regions. The investigation found that when unsold or unsalvageable, these garments are illegally discarded, clogging waterways and harming wildlife.


“Ghana has become the final destination for the world’s fashion waste,” said Ama Boateng, a Greenpeace campaigner in West Africa. “What we are seeing is a flood of unwanted clothing that our systems cannot absorb, and the environment is paying the price.”

Through drone footage, satellite imagery and on-the-ground inspections, Greenpeace researchers identified extensive mounds of rotting textiles, some soaked in toxic dyes and chemicals, leaching into the surrounding soil and water.


Local residents near these areas have raised concerns about increased flooding, blocked drainage, and declining fish stocks. “We used to fish in these wetlands. Now, all we find are old shoes and t-shirts,” said Isaac Mensah, a resident of the Old Fadama area.


The fashion labels acknowledged that the industry faces challenges in processing textile waste. Brands M&S, George and Primark said they run take-back schemes intended to help address the issue. H&M, Zara and George said they would support an extended producer responsibility (EPR) framework to hold labels accountable for their products’ end-of-life impact but the current buildup of thousands of pounds of clothing waste remain in the Ghanian environment.


Greenpeace is calling for international accountability, urging exporting countries to reform textile waste policies and fashion brands to take responsibility for the end-of-life impacts of their products.

Here in Australia, the charity organisation Thread Together is one of the first in the world established to divert new, unsold clothing destined for landfill and provide it to the most disadvantaged across the country. By collaborating with fashion brands and retailers, Thread Together extends the life cycle of clothing by keeping it in circulation. The organisation collects end-of-line, new stock, which is then sorted by volunteers and distributed through its national network of registered charities and social service agencies to clothe individuals, families and communities in need.


To find out more and support Greenpeace’s work, see the organisation’s latest video.


References & further reading:

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